Sanctuary of Our Lady of Penha de França (Lisbon, Portugal)

On this page

I . History

II . Description

III . Our Lady of Penha de França

IV . "Ex-votos "

I . HISTORY

The original chapel of Our Lady of Penha de França was built on a site at the time called Cabeço do Alperche, on land made available by Afonso de Torres Magalhães. The foundation stone – with the engraved words Jesus Mary Avanti – was laid on the 25^th March 1597, the Feast of the Annunciation of the Virgin. The image of Our Lady of Penha de França was carved by António Simões, a carving artist, to fulfil a vow made in Alcacer Quibir.

The following year, as the great plague made its first victims in Lisbon, the city witnessed the foundation of the Brotherhood of the Noblemen and Seafarers and the first of the later famous Procession of the Knocker [Procissão do Ferrolho].

In 1603, the Chapel was donated to the Hermits of Saint Augustine, who were at the time based in the nearby Convent of Our Lady of Graça. The construction of the new Convent and the enlargement of the Chapel started the year after, designed by the royal architect Teodósio de Frias (c. 1555-1634). Works completed, in 1635, a remarkable procession walked the image solemnly into the new temple. The throne for the honourable image in the chancel was made in 1650 by the woodworker brothers António Vaz de Castro and Lourenço Coelho. António Cavide, D. João IV’s prominent secretary, also made his contribution to the construction works by donating a large portion of his property to help complete the temple and ordering his tomb to be there erected in 1667.

In 1754 an extensive church renovation campaign took place. From this campaign, only the Vestry and the so called House of Miracles have made it to our days. The 1755 earthquake caused considerable damage to the church, including the collapse of the vaults, which destroyed many of the already built elements and caused the death of more than 300 people. Recovered from the wreckage, the hardly damaged honourable image was stored in a house next to the church. The memory of this event was immortalised in a tile panel.

Reconstruction began in 1756, according to the design project by the architect Aires da Cunha at an early stage, with later intervention of Caetano de Sousa (1742-1802). The rebuilding was completed in 1788, due to the commitment of both D. Pedro de Meneses, 4^th Marquis of Marialva (1713-1799), and the sailors from the Ship Nossa Senhora da Ajuda, as per the inscription on the memorial stone placed at the entrance of the church.

After 1808, during the French invasions, the convent area was used to lodge army soldiers and later, in 1820, the 12^th Infantry Regiment. From 1833 onwards, it was owned by the Ministry of War. Following the issue of the decree for the extinction of the Religious Orders, in 1834, the building was partially abandoned, and a considerable part of what comprised the monumental set was lost.

In the early 20^th century, after major restoration works supervised by the Engineer Alberto Monteiro, the church resumed worshipping ceremonies in 1909. Between 1929 and 1932, the former pilgrims’ houses were demolished and the Water Company Tank was built, including a hydraulic infrastructure that used the former convent’s cistern.

In 1937, the church became the seat of the newly created Parish of Our Lady of Penha de França.

The church and the building of the former Convent of Our Lady of Penha de França – currently the headquarters of the General Command of the Public Security Police -, were classified as a Public Interest Monument in 2017.

II . DESCRIPTION

The architectural array formed by the church and the convent of Our Lady of Penha de França sits on one of the Lisbon hills, and commands one of the most stunning views over the city and its surroundings. The former Convent of the Augustines, on the left, lends great monumentality to the whole set.

The main façade, featuring three arches and an elegant staircase leading to the church, holds the coat of arms of the Order of the Hermits of Saint Augustine at the centre, over the window and small balcony. On the rear façade, highlight goes to the bell tower and the large tile panel depicting The Miracle of Our Lady of Penha de França, attributed to Francisco Jorge da Costa (1749-1829), which dates back to the reconstruction period.

In the access gallery, with a two-flight staircase that unfolds in two opposite directions, the memorial stones over the balustrade take pride of place, with Portuguese and Latin inscriptions recalling the donations made by D. Pedro de Meneses and the Seafarers from the Ship Nossa Senhora da Ajuda for the reconstruction of the temple’s frontispiece, in 1788.

To Virgin Mary the Mother of God

Under the fortunate title of Benign Penha de França and most merciful benefactor,

this temple, which had been destroyed by the mighty earthquake of 1755,

was built as a new and magnificent building, under royal patronage, with the donations of

seafarers and the contributions from the devotees,

particularly the Marquis of Marialva, Pedro II, to the honour of what is owed

to the Augustine Hermits and to them delivered in the year of Our Lord 1788.

The inside of the church, of great luminosity and harmony, has an octagonal structure, richly lined in polychrome marble in shades of blue, white, rose and green.

In the nave, the side altars are inserted in round arches: on the right, stand the altar of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, with an image of Saint John the Baptist, a Saint who is greatly worshipped in this temple; the altar of Our lady of Deliverance, the seamen’s former devotion, with an exquisite image of the Virgin made of upholstered and polychrome wood; and the altar of Our Lady of the Rosary; on the left, stand the altar of Our Lady of Mercy with an image of the same invocation and an image of Saint Joseph at the base; the altar of the Immaculate Heart of Mary and the altar of Our Lady of Carmel, with images of these invocations.

The series of paintings above the side altars represents Scenes from the Virgin’s Life and is attributed to the Argarvian painter Diogo Magina (c. 1766): The Immaculate Conception, The Presentation of the Virgin, The Betrothals, The Annunciation, The Visitation and The Death of Our Lady.

In the nave, mention is equally due to: the two majestic rostrums that flank the high-choir; the windows with bolsters between the paintings; the images of Saint Anthony and the Holy Family on lateral pedestals; and two semi-circular pulpits with marble base.

The ceiling shows a representation of the Miracle of Our Lady of Penha de França, the Mystic Lamb on the Book of the Seven Seals, with inscribed caption – ECCE AGNUS DEI, and the coat of arms of the Royal Brotherhood of Our Lady of Penha de França, a painting by José Maria Pereira Júnior and P. Guedes, dated 1903.

In the Chancel, the remarkable altarpiece, by the architect Caetano de Sousa (1742-1802) and the carver António Nunes Colares, is topped by a gilded carved wood crown – Our Lady’s attribute. The side walls display the monumental sculptures of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, replicas by Machado de Castro (1731-1822); and two canvases representing The Birth of Our Lady and the Assumption of the Virgin, also by Diogo Magina. The ceiling is painted with angel figures and Marian symbols.

In the Tribune of the Virgin, the honourable image of Our Lady of Penha de França – the original one, according to the tradition - takes pride of place, standing on a magnificent gilded carved wood oratory, topped by the Dove – the symbol of the Holy Spirit. The image is enthroned on an outstanding marble pedestal with inlaid elements. The tile ashlars of the tribune side walls depict different Marian invocations – The Tower, The Well, The Rose, and The Palm,… On the ceiling, the central monogram M is surrounded by cherubs.

The antechamber of the vestry, the former House of Miracles or House of Vows, one of the rooms which remained unaffected by the earthquake, is lined in polychrome tile panels (c. 1660), with exquisite decorative motifs around the central panel with the coat of arms of the Order of the Hermits of Saint Augustine.

At the top of the room, highlight goes to the imposing marble arcosolium tomb where António de Cavide – church benefactor – lies together with his wife, D. Mariana Antónia de Castro. The wall also exhibits the so called Lizard of Penha, a replica of the one existing prior to the earthquake, which, together with the snake, are a reference to the Miracle.

A large and meaningful collection of “Ex-votos”, most of which are an expression of the seafarers’ devotion, is displayed on the side walls.

In the vestry, the walls are lined with a splendid polychrome tile set (c. 1640-1650) that goes back to before the earthquake. Another highlight is the monumental lavabo, a single shell-shaped marble piece; the amices cabinet, by António Vaz de Castro and Lourenço Coelho (1650), and the chest, as well as the extraordinary marbled flooring.

A great Crucifix takes pride of place at the High-choir, completely lined in marble. In the adjoining rooms, different series of tiles dating from the second half of the 18^th century tell the story of the Life of Saint Augustine and Scenes from the Virgin’s Life.

III . OUR LADY OF PENHA DE FRANÇA

This originally Castilian invocation is related with the 1434 unearthing of an image of the Virgin found buried at the top of a mountain near Ciudad Rodrigo, in the province of Salamanca, a place called Peña de Francia.

In Portugal, the devotion can be traced back to António Simões who, in Alcacer Quibir, promised to Our Lady to dedicate images of different devotions to Her, if he ever made it back to his Homeland. Upon his return, he kept his promise by naming the last image Our Lady of Penha de França, as suggested by Father Inácio Martins.

The devotion spread rapidly among the people. As of 1599, certain events intensified the worship of the Virgin of Penha de França. As the plague afflicted Lisbon, the Mayor D. Gil Eanes (1543-1612), together with the whole Senate, pleaded for Our Lady’s help, and promised to hold an annual penitential procession. That was the origin of the famous Procession of the Knocker, named after the tradition of calling the faithful by knocking on the door knockers, and held every year on the 5^th August. That year, Our Lady of Penha de França was invoked as the Protector of Lisbon.

In the same year, the plague affected even ships sailing in the high sea. Aware of this threat, D. Jerónimo Coutinho – Captain of the India Route Fleet - turned to Our Lady of Penha de França for help and vowed to form a Brotherhood. The captain himself would be the first Judge and the entire crew enrolled. That was the beginning of the illustrious Brotherhood of Our Lady of Penha de França, also known as Brotherhood of the Noblemen and Seafarers. Initially, seafarers were the only members and the Judge was the Major Captain of the India Ships.

Our Lady of Penha de França was one of the last Lisbon sanctuaries seafarers could see as they departed from the city, and one of the first they could lay their eyes on as they approached Lisbon on their way back. Taking an image of Our Lady of Penha de França in every journey was common practice, and the Lady’s help would be summoned whenever dangerous situations presented themselves in the high sea.

This devotion was taken across the world by the ships of the Portuguese discoverers to as far as Brazil, India, Macao, or Timor… The fact that numerous “ex-votos” were brought as thankful gifts to churches and chapels of this invocation confirm the confidence seafarers placed in the Virgin as a special Protector.

References to the Miracle of the Lizard of Penha also date back to remote times. Tradition has it that a pilgrim travelling from afar fell asleep at the foot of the Mountain. Woken by a big lizard, the pilgrim escaped being bitten by a snake, and credited the powerful intercession of Our Lady of Penha de França with his survival. The animal was stuffed and kept in the church until 1739. It was later replaced with another animal made of carved wood, which disappeared at the time of the earthquake; finally, a third lizard was carved and can still be seen today on display over the door of the vestry. The Lizard of Penha is particularly associated with the devotion in this Sanctuary.

At Our Lady of Penha de França arrived pilgrims and candles from afar, of which one of the most important was the candle of Palmelôas, from Cabanas, near Palmela.

In general iconography, Our Lady of Penha de França is represented with a crown, a sceptre in her right hand, holding the Child – also crowned – in her left arm. The lizard appears as an attribute in Portuguese iconography only.

The Feast of Our Lady of Penha de França is celebrated on the 8^th September, Feast of the Nativity.

IV . "EX-VOTOS"

The seafarers’ deep devotion is shown by the countless “ex-votos” – small paintings offered as a sign of gratitude for the bestowal of divine favours. A remarkable collection, which has been augmented over the centuries, is exhibited in the so called House of Miracles or House of Vows. Most of its pieces date back to the 18^th and 19^th centuries. A significant set of “ex-votos” belonging to this collection is now at the Maritime Museum.

One of the best-known “ex-votos” is related with the Ship Nossa Senhora da Ajuda: in 1778, on its way from Baía to Lisbon, the ship was wrecked by a storm. The surviving members of the crew promised to pay penitence by travelling to the Sanctuary of Penha de França. Besides having substantially contributed to the church restoration works, they also brought a replica of the ship and an “ex-voto” alluding to the miracle, now on display at the Maritime Museum.

References

• ARAÚJO, Fernando Augusto José de, Notícia Histórica da Veneranda Imagem da Nossa Senhora da Penha de França offerecida à Sua Real Irmandade por um devoto da mesma Senhora, Lisboa, Typographia Eduardo Roza, 1903.
• AZEVEDO, Carlos Moreira, Ordem dos Eremitas de Santo Agostinho em Portugal (1256-1834), Centro de Estudos de História Religiosa da Universidade Católica Portuguesa, 2011.
• DENIS, M. Fernando, Portugal Pitoresco ou Descrição Histórica deste Reino, Vol. IV, Lisboa, 1849.
• DUARTE, Maria José Guerreiro, Penha de França: 400 anos do Santuário, 80 da freguesia, Olisipo, S.2, nº 7, Dez. 1998, pp. 47-51.